By J. William Kamphuis

This paintings is meant to be a textual content for undergraduate scholars of coastal engineering. It additionally serves as a reference for graduate scholars and working towards engineers, construction on a uncomplicated starting place in coastal engineering. ultimately, it's going to be beneficial as a consultant for individuals in similar disciplines. Coastal managers could use the e-book to hide the numerous theoretical and engineering-related points in their alternate. Its material is of curiosity to geographers, planners and coastal scientists alike.

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What about small projects? Do we need (or even want) the most sophisticated information to re-design a storm water drain? For most engineering designs, relatively simple expressions for the various concepts of Table 1 . 1 are sufficient and indeed preferable to provide solutions within a budget. This represents further simplification. The bulk of this text focuses specifically on the simpler concepts. These are the concepts normally used and judged to be sufficient to accomplish most studies and routine designs.

W i n d <'limate (speed and direction) - loiig-term statistical data - data for ina,jor storms 2. Wave C'limate - long-term statistical data - data for major atomis 3. W a t e r Ixvels - tides - surges - tluctuatioiis (annual, decadcs and long-term) 4. Wave 'l'ransformation - wave slloallllg - wave rclracticiii - \ w v c dilfraction - wave breaking - wave retlection - wave attenuation 5. Beach Parameters 6. C'u rren t s Ice Sediment Transport Relationships 7. 8. - profiles and profile variability - grain s i x s and distributions - alongshore - cross-shore 9.

The best- Chapter 2 - 31 Water Waves known numerical theory is the Stream Function Theory of Dean (1974). Much interest also exists in the Boussinesq equations. These equations are related to the Korteweg deVries equations and simulate waves in shallow water. With recent research, it has been possible to extend the range of applicability of these equations to deeper water. Thus, although computationally intensive, they form a powerful non-linear, numerical wave theory that can calculate waves accurately throughout a large range of depths Dingemans (1997, Vol.

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