By Editors of CPi

Tailoring is the full picture consultant to stitching jackets and coats. Written by means of stitching execs, this booklet teaches the relied on, confirmed tools for stitching adapted jackets with impeccable information and ideal healthy. Written for the intermediate sewer who desires to movement directly to tougher initiatives, this e-book guarantees good fortune with distinctive, step by step directions, greater than four hundred images, in-depth discussions approximately items and the way to exploit them. Tailoring deals tips for each element of tailoring a jacket: becoming and development alteration, materials and instruments, interfacings, interlinings, seams and finishes, hand stitches, collars, urgent, topstitching, shaping shoulders, surroundings in sleeves, stitching wallet, vents, and making ideal buttonholes.

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Extra resources for Tailoring: The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket

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Polyester linings are an excellent choice for coat linings, which are usually subjected to more wear than jacket linings. Silk fibers, although luxurious, are not usually recommended for linings because they are damaged by perspiration. The lining should be lighter in weight and softer than the garment fabric, with a smooth surface that slides over other fabrics without rustling. Choose one that falls into soft folds when draped over your hand. Test lining choices by sliding them across the garment fabric surface.

The same guidelines apply for matching stripes—consider the placement of either vertical or horizontal lines only, depending on the direction of the stripes in the fabric. Selecting Patterns & Fabrics If the design is shown in a plaid in the pattern sketch or photograph, you can be sure it is suitable for plaids. Do not consider the pattern if it is described as “unsuitable for plaids and stripes” on the back of the pattern envelope. Patternmakers include this statement when seam shaping makes it difficult to match the design.

Cut small triangle of fabric; tuck under one corner of each interfacing for tab. Fuse interfacing, opposite. 2 Pull fabric tab; try to peel away interfacing. Fabric and interfacing should feel permanently bonded. 3 Fold fabric strip in half over interfacings. Fold each interfacing against itself to simulate layers at front edge of garment. Evaluate test sample, using the chart above. How to Apply Fusible Interfacing 1 Position interfacing on warm fabric, resin side down; smooth into place. Lightly mist interfacing with water, or steam shrink (page 61).

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